Since ancient times, clothes have been more than just utilitarian objects. They have served as social markers, symbols of status and belonging to specific communities. Among these garments, the Roman toga and Greek and Etruscan academic dress occupy a special place. These garments, which carry profound meanings, have evolved over the centuries, influencing dress codes right up to the present day.
This article explores how these ancient civilisations shaped academic dress traditions, highlighting Roman, Greek and Etruscan influences, as well as the traces left by Eastern cultures. By tracing the story of these emblematic garments, we discover a rich and complex heritage that continues to manifest itself in modern academic ceremonies.
The Roman toga: a social and political marker
The Roman toga, a loose woollen cloth wrapped around the body, was much more than a garment. It was a real social marker, a symbol of Roman citizenship and belonging to a community.
Remarkable versatility
The Roman toga was a practical item of clothing for everyday life. It was used as a blanket, a towel, a bag and even a spare bed when travelling. Its versatility made it an indispensable garment for the Romans.
A strict dress code
The colour, quality of wool and manner in which the toga was worn were regulated and indicated the wearer's social status. Senators, for example, wore a white toga, a symbol of purity and dignity, while young Romans wore a purple toga edged in black, marking their passage into adulthood.
A stylistic evolution
Over the centuries, Roman fashion has evolved, and with it, the way in which togas are worn. The pleats, lengths and the sinification of colours have varied with the times and trends. Some periods saw the emergence of more elaborate styles, with embroidery and ornamentation, while others favoured a more austere simplicity.
While the Roman toga symbolised citizenship and social status in the Roman Empire, the Greeks also played a crucial role in the evolution of ancient dress codes. Their passion for philosophy, athletics and education shaped distinct dress practices, influencing the cultural and social norms of their time.
The Greeks: philosophy, athletics and education
The Greeks, with their passion for philosophy, athletics and education, also helped shape the dress codes of Antiquity.
The gym: a place for learning and debate
Greek gymnasiums were meeting places where people engaged in physical and philosophical exercises. Philosophers such as Socrates and Plato held their classes there. Although we have no precise descriptions of their outfits, we can imagine that they were simple and functional, suited to an active and intellectual life.
The Panhellenic Games: a celebration of excellence
The Greeks regularly organised pan-Hellenic games, such as the Olympic Games, where athletes wore laurel wreaths and special clothing. These sporting and cultural events may have contributed to the development of dress codes for intellectual and physical activities.
Schools of rhetoric: the power of the spoken word
Schools of rhetoric, where the art of eloquence was taught, were widespread in the Greek world. Rhetors, with their preoccupation with appearance and persuasion, may have adopted specific clothing, such as elegant togas or particular accessories, to reinforce their authority and charisma.
At the same time, the Etruscans, a people from central Italy, also left a significant mark on the clothing of the period, influencing the evolution of academic dress in particular.
The Etruscans: a little-known influence
The Etruscans, a people from central Italy who strongly influenced Roman culture, also contributed to the evolution of academic dress.
The Etruscan tunic: elegance and refinement
The Etruscan tunic, often decorated with colourful motifs and embroidery, was an elegant and refined garment. This influence could explain the bright colours and decorative motifs on some university gowns, particularly during the most solemn ceremonies.
Funeral rites: a symbolic passage
The Etruscans attached great importance to funeral rites. Their often sumptuous funeral garments may have inspired certain elements of academic dress, symbolising the passage from one state to another (from student to graduate).
The influence of the Etruscans and Greeks can be seen in the modern university gown, which retains symbolic and stylistic elements from these ancient cultures.
Ancient heritage in the university gown
The ancient heritage is reflected in various aspects of the university gown:
Symbolism
The toga, originally a symbol of Roman citizenship, has become a symbol of knowledge, wisdom and membership of an intellectual community.
The continuity of tradition
Despite stylistic developments and changes in materials, the university gown has retained some of the characteristics of its ancient ancestors, such as its ample shape and white colour.
A link with the past
Wearing a toga at a graduation ceremony is part of a long educational tradition dating back to antiquity.
Conclusion
The evolution of dress codes through the ages, from the Romans to the Greeks to the Etruscans, shows the importance of dress as a symbol of status, knowledge and belonging to a community. The modern university gown, heir to these ancient traditions, continues to represent these values at academic ceremonies. By exploring Eastern influences, artistic representations and manufacturing techniques, we can better understand the history and significance of this emblematic garment. The academic gown is not just a piece of clothing, but a tangible link with our educational and cultural past.
