The university gown, the emblematic garment of graduation ceremonies, is much more than a simple garment. It embodies centuries of tradition, knowledge and symbolism. This article explores the evolution of the university gown, from its early ancient origins to its role in modern ceremonies.
We will examine how this garment has survived the ages, adapting to social, cultural and technological changes, while retaining its profound meaning. From ancient Rome to medieval universities, through the reforms of the Renaissance to the challenges of the 21st century, we will discover why the university gown remains a powerful and relevant symbol today.
Ancient Roots
The Roman toga
The Roman toga was much more than just a garment; it was a distinctive social marker. Worn exclusively by free citizens, it distinguished men from women and citizens from slaves. The toga virilisThe toga, or adult man's toga, symbolised entry into public life. The toga praetextaThis was reserved for magistrates and young boys from noble families, indicating their high status.
Greek philosophers
Although the Greek philosophers did not wear togas, their clothing reflected their austere lifestyle and their quest for wisdom. The chiton and thehimation were the most common garments. The chiton, a light tunic, was often worn under the himation, a cloak draped over the shoulder. Iconographic representations of Socrates and Plato often show these philosophers dressed simply, emphasising their detachment from material possessions and their dedication to philosophy.
The Etruscans
The Etruscans had a significant influence on Roman fashion, introducing elements of sophistication and luxury. Their clothes were often intricately patterned and made from precious materials. The Romans adopted and adapted these elements, incorporating richer fabrics and ornamentation into their own garments. This influence is particularly visible in Roman togas, which evolved to include colourful borders and embroidery, reflecting the Etruscan taste for luxury and sophistication.
To find out more about the ancient origins of the toga, read this article "Origins of the University Gown“
The Middle Ages: Consolidating a Tradition
Transition
Fast forward to the Middle Ages, a period when the university gown was beginning to establish itself as a distinct academic symbol. This period was marked by the influence of the Church and the birth of the first universities.
The Church and education
The Catholic Church played a central role in the transmission of knowledge in the Middle Ages. Ecclesiastical dress, with its simple lines and symbolic colours, served as a model for the first academic outfits. Mendicant orders, such as the Dominicans and Franciscans, favoured simplicity and poverty, influencing academic dress that reflected these values.
Medieval universities
Student life in medieval universities was marked by guilds, rituals and rivalries. Students often lived in precarious conditions but took an active part in the intellectual effervescence of their time. Academic dress served to identify students from one university to another and to reinforce the sense of belonging to a community.
Among the oldest and most influential medieval universities are :
- University of Bologna Founded in 1088, it is often considered to be the oldest university in the Western world. It was famous for its law studies.
- University of Paris Established around 1150, it became a major centre of theology and philosophy.
- Oxford University The school's origins date back to the end of the 12th century, and it is renowned for its continuing academic excellence.
- University of Montpellier Founded in 1220, it was renowned for its medical studies.
The symbolism of the toga
As well as its practical aspect, the medieval toga was loaded with symbols: knowledge, authority, tradition and community. It represented academic status and membership of an intellectual elite. Different interpretations of these symbols have evolved over the centuries, but the toga has remained a distinctive sign of the academy.
The Modern Era: Change and Adaptation
With the advent of the Renaissance and the Reformation, the university gown underwent further transformations. These periods of intellectual and religious upheaval brought significant changes to academic dress codes.
The Renaissance and the Reformation
The Renaissance and the Reformation had a significant impact on the vision of education and dress codes. The Renaissance favoured a return to ancient sources, influencing academic dress with classical elements. The Reformation, on the other hand, challenged the authority of the Church and advocated simplicity in dress, marking a break with ecclesiastical traditions.
The Age of Enlightenment
The Age of Enlightenment marked a break with tradition and gave pride of place to reason and the individual. This period saw an evolution in academic dress towards simpler, more functional styles, reflecting the ideals of rationality and progress.
The 19th century
The 19th century saw the standardisation of academic dress, particularly in England and the United States. Universities adopted precise dress codes for their students and professors, inspired by military uniforms with details such as braids and buttons. In France, Napoleon generalised a type of university dress after the Revolution, setting a standard that continues to this day.
The 20th century
The two world wars turned societies and university institutions upside down. The gown survived these ordeals, evolving with the feminisation of universities and protest movements. It has become a symbol of resilience and adaptation, reflecting the social and cultural changes of the 20th century. Graduation ceremonies, once a rarity, have regained their place, and the toga has become a symbol of academic achievement for all students.
The 21st Century: The Toga in a Changing World
At the dawn of the 21st century, the academic gown continues to adapt to new global realities. Globalisation, contemporary criticism and the rise of digital technology present new challenges and opportunities for this academic symbol.
Globalisation and diversity
Globalisation has led to increasing cultural diversity within universities. This diversity is reflected in graduation ceremonies, where the university gown has to adapt to a variety of cultural contexts. For example, some universities are incorporating traditional local elements into their academic dress to celebrate the diversity of their students. The toga thus becomes a symbol of inclusion and respect for the different cultures present within academic institutions.
Criticism and alternatives
University gowns have come in for criticism, particularly in terms of cost, ecology and conformity. The high cost of gowns can be an obstacle for some students, and the production of these garments has a significant environmental impact. To address these concerns, several alternatives have been proposed:
- Rental of gowns Reuse of gowns: Reduces costs and ecological footprint by reusing gowns.
- More sober attire : Some institutions opt for simpler, less expensive academic wear.
- Ecological togas : Use of sustainable materials and environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes.
The toga and digital
The rise of digital technology has changed the way we communicate and learn, and graduation ceremonies are no exception. With the rise of online courses and distance learning degrees, virtual ceremonies have become more commonplace. In this context, the university gown must find its place in an increasingly virtual world. Some universities are sending gowns to graduates so that they can wear them at online ceremonies, maintaining the tradition even at a distance.
The future of the toga
The future of the university gown could take several directions:
- Disappearance The new toga: If criticism of the costs and environmental impact persists, some institutions could abandon the toga.
- Adaptation : The toga could evolve to better respond to modern concerns, incorporating sustainable materials and more inclusive designs.
- Reinvention : The toga could be reinvented to adapt to new digital and cultural realities, while retaining its academic symbolism.
Conclusion
The evolution of the university gown, from its ancient origins to the present day, shows how this garment has adapted to social, cultural and technological changes. Each period has brought its own modifications, enriching the toga's symbolism.
Today, the university gown is much more than just a relic of the past. It is a symbol of academic achievement, unity and diversity. It embodies the values of knowledge, tradition and community, while adapting to contemporary challenges.
What place does tradition have in a constantly changing world? How can we reconcile the heritage of the past with the aspirations of the future? These questions remain open and invite ongoing reflection on the importance and future of academic traditions.
